You've got equity in the house and a project or a bill that needs money you don't have sitting in an account.

You've got equity in the house and a project or a bill that needs money you don't have sitting in an account. The bank will lend against the house either as a lump sum you pay back on a fixed schedule, or as a line you draw from as needed. The one you pick should follow the shape of what you're paying for, not whichever one the loan officer mentions first.
A home equity loan gives you one deposit, once. You get the full amount on day one, and you repay it in equal installments over a set term, usually at a fixed rate. The payment doesn't move. You know what month twelve looks like on the day you sign.
A home equity line of credit, usually shortened to HELOC, works more like a credit card that happens to be secured by your house. You get approved for a limit, but nothing is disbursed until you draw on it. You pay interest only on what you've actually drawn, and the rate is usually variable, meaning your payment can go up or down as broader interest rates move. Most lines also have a draw period, where you can keep borrowing and repaying, followed by a repayment period, where the drawing stops and you pay down whatever balance is left.
Neither one is better in general. They're built for different shapes of spending, and matching the shape is most of the decision.
A home equity loan suits a project with a known, fixed cost. A kitchen remodel with a signed contractor quote. Paying off a fixed amount of higher-rate debt in one move. Covering a one-time cost like a wedding or a large medical bill you already know the total for.
The appeal is predictability. You borrow exactly what the job costs, the payment is the same every month, and you're not tempted to keep drawing more once the original project is done. If you know the number and you know it isn't going to grow, a lump sum matches the job.
The tradeoff is that you start paying interest on the whole amount immediately, even if the contractor doesn't get through the last stage of the job for another two months. If your project has a real chance of running long or running over budget, a fixed lump sum forces you back to the lender for a second loan when the money runs out.
A HELOC suits spending that's ongoing, uncertain in total, or spread out over time. A renovation done in phases, where you don't know the full cost until later stages are scoped. A rolling home repair fund you draw from as things come up. A period where you might need access to money but aren't sure you'll use all of it.
The appeal is flexibility. You're not paying interest on money sitting unused, and you can draw again after repaying, within your draw period. That makes it a better fit for a reserve you hope not to need in full, rather than a bill you already have in hand.
The tradeoff is the variable rate. Your payment during the draw period can be interest-only, which keeps it low now but means the balance doesn't shrink unless you choose to pay principal too. When the draw period ends and the repayment period begins, the payment can jump, sometimes by a meaningful amount, because you're now paying both principal and interest on whatever balance is left. That transition is the single most common surprise HELOC borrowers report, and it's worth mapping out on paper before you sign anything, not when the letter arrives.
Both of these borrow against your house. That is the fact that should shape how much you take, regardless of which structure you choose. A home equity loan or a line of credit is typically what's called a second position loan or second mortgage, meaning it sits behind your primary mortgage. If you fall behind on payments, the lender's collateral is the house itself, the same way it is with your first mortgage. This is different from a credit card or a personal loan, where missing payments damages your credit but doesn't put your home on the line.
That doesn't mean either option is reckless. It means the sizing decision matters more than the structure decision. Borrowing an amount you can service comfortably against your actual income, with room for the rate to move if you chose the variable line, is the real safeguard. The structure only decides how the money arrives. The amount decides how much risk you're carrying.
Write down, on one line, exactly what the money is for and whether the total cost is a fixed number or still a guess. That single sentence answers most of the structural question before you ever sit down with a lender.